For those of you getting weird renewals:
(this was discovered in the USA but GDPR might mean its worth requesting the data with a SAR in the UK before renewing)
None Paywall Link: https://archive.is/6YyXQ
Surprised it’s not gone down for those living in Wales, 20mph in towns and cities, you’d hurt yourself more falling over than crashing into something (joke).
I was told it’s because getting insurance sorted early shows insurers you’re a sensible person who plans ahead rather than recklessly leaving everything until the last minute, and they see that attitude as reflecting on your risk to them.
Probably similar here for the other manufacturers mentioned.
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I actually linked that 3 posts above 
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Oops 
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Got my Aviva Zero renewal. Went up from £560 last year to £600.
DId a search on Money Supermarket, Compare The Market and Confused and manged to renew for £530 with Avia (no Zero!).
Hopefully £30 of Topcashback too.
My Aviva Zero policy went up from £740 to £810
Switched to Admiral for £640 
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I’ve just insured a new Tesla fully comp for £500 with Admiral, which I didn’t think was too bad.
Interesting to read this, I had the exact same scenario but flipped. Admiral tried to ramp up my policy so I swapped to Aviva and saved £100. They called my bluff on cancelling and I had to follow through 
At renewal always have the same 3 providers battling it out for the top spot of being cheapest.
If insurers weren’t so greedy and offered a competitive renewal cost I’d stick with them
As it stands I change every year and seem to cycle through the aforementioned 3.
How do car insurance companies know how many miles I’ve been driving? I got a used car which is only a year old now. I know the milage was recorded on some forms when I bought the car (which was incorrect, the dealership had to keep crossing it out). Will this be given to them? Will the fact it was incorrect on the forms matter?
MOT certificate
But new cars don’t need an MOT for the first 3 years. How do insurers know the milage before this?
They wont know then unless you tell them or they look for themselves.
When you have an accident and they assess the value of the vehicle, they’ll look at the mileage then. If you’ve exceeded what you claim to do in a year, then they will invalidate your insurance.
They will do anything to get out of paying.
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Makes sense. I have checked my service book and the dealership did record the milage the day before I got the car so that does show how many miles the car did before I got it. I’m not planning on going over, just interested to know how they knew, especially in a used car that is too new for an MOT.
Unrelated question but have the same car and need some tyres and i’m not overly keen on the Bridgestone Run-Flats. Did you stick with them or get something different?
Getting rid of the wheel spin would be a bonus and did you stick with run-flats or just go for normal tyres? As I could just get an inflation kit to keep in the tiny boot 
Perfect as I’m not keen on Run-Flats having had them on my previous BMW which just added to the harsh ride of the sports suspension.
Good to know that the UX is approved to run with non-RFs for insurance purposes
Is it really worth the risk?
Just tell them the accaurate mileage, pay to insure the true value of the car, that is partly based on this and you’ll be fine.
I wouldnt want to write off my brand new car that I’ve likely not paid off and find the insurance company have found some escape clause not to pay.